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Kniha Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (William Finnegan) (Paperback) - William Finnegan

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (William Finnegan) (Paperback)

Corsair: Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and...


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23,57€

Corsair:

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.

William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.


Jazyk: anglický Rok vydania: 2015 Rozmer: 156×235 mm ISBN: 9781472151391 Počet strán: 464 Väzba: brožovaná

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